# How to Depower an NA/NB Power Steering Rack

> You've probably heard of a "depowered rack" before and about the claims of many who prefer a manual steering rack compared to the factory steering setup.

Source: https://help.flyinmiata.com/en_us/depowered-power-steering-rack-S1S6Gwni

Last updated: 2026-05-13T17:35:55.139Z

You've probably heard of a "depowered rack" before and about the claims of many who prefer a manual steering rack compared to the factory power steering setup.  We won't discuss whether you should or shouldn't depower your steering rack here (the best litmus test is to drive someone's Miata who has already done it), but the process is fairly straightforward to do yourself.  Of course, if you don't want the hassle of pulling apart the guts of your steering rack and reassembling it yourself, [there are businesses that offer depowering services](https://miata-source.com/collections/depowered-rack/products/service-depowered-rack-labor) to take care of the ordeal for you.

Originally published in 2002.

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If you want the quick ratio of a power steering rack without power assistance, you have a few options:

1.  You can simply unhook the power steering belt, but this leads to heavy steering since you're still moving all of that fluid against the pump and wiper/seal.
2.  You could loop the lines together (as shown below), but there's still a lot of resistance due to the fluid and wiper/seal.  

![](https://web.archive.org/web/20210126015050im_/https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower/OTC_steering_rack.jpg)        

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      3.  But the best way to do the job is to disassemble the rack and remove the internal wiper/seal to reduce the effort required to turn the steering wheel.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/9f8a1d9c84e776bf65b2f9f5afba0022.png)  

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We've pulled the steering rack (1990-95 rack) off the chassis since it's easiest to do this work on the bench.  You'll need to remove either the upper or lower intermediate shaft bolt, and don't forget to mark the shaft to the splines to help aid in reassembly.  Removing the tie rods from the rack while it's still securely fastened to the subframe is also a great idea.  Keep in mind that later steering racks may require different methods of internal disassembly.  Still, this article should successfully get you to the end of the project for any NA/NB power steering rack. 

First, start by thoroughly cleaning the rack so that you don't have to work in all the muck.  Then, remove the adjuster lock nut, cover, spring, and support yoke at the base of the column (on top of the rack housing).

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/b5d00a6f58a51bea753c2e9232ca2ec2.jpg)

  

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\*\*Those parts are laid out left to right in order of removal\*\*

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/a9482ee76f6b0a1d02bac974bbe66061.png)

  

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To remove the pinion shaft, start with the snap ring.  It's underneath a plastic dust boot (already removed) shown on the table.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/02e0da10eb3137cc5f0ecd14a6635083.png)

  

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Once the snap ring is off, flip the rack over and put it in a vice.  Remove the threaded cover to expose this nut.  Remove the nut and then tap the pinion shaft out of the pinion shaft housing.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/08db3a28cf154f490600420fa57953be.png)

  

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These are the bits we've disassembled so far:

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/7785c30902e7eeb874bd6e1f5978ccf2.png)

  

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The steering rack shaft is held in the housing by a stop ring - which looks like an internal snap ring - at the opposite end of the pinion shaft.  Use a punch through the hole at the end of the housing to pop it free.  Some model years use a different technique for holding the shaft in place and most NBs will have a bushing at the end of the tube that you can use a wrench on. This piece is also the rod guide so, don't mess it up since it will be used again. 

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/aaa54ef557fc842554d357a40f8d6600.png)

  

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The steering rack shaft can now be pulled free of the housing.  You'll also need to remove the large bushing holder (which looks a bit like a slide hammer handle) from the shaft - be careful not to damage it since it will be reused.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/a87b5dc4457b1cd7026ca58865942cff.png)

  

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Clamp the steering rack shaft into a vise after wrapping it with some rags, so the vise jaws do not damage it.  Carefully cut the wiper/seal from the shaft.  In this case, we used a cut-off wheel to cut most of the way through it and then whacked it with a chisel to crack it open the rest of the way.  A couple of cuts/whacks like this, and the wiper/seal will fall off without damaging the steering rack shaft.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/5b4de393d200d8bdf0d7c9ae34962a51.png)

  

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The hard part is done!  Now we reassemble everything, ensuring that all moving parts have a liberal amount of grease.

Since there won't be any fluid in the housing now, we can remove and cap the hydraulic lines.  One way to block them is simply to cut the tube and crimp it shut.  We're not trying to hold pressure here, only keep the dirt out.  Another option is to grab the welder and close in the hole of the fitting or buy a [plug kit from a third party](https://miata-source.com/search?type=product&q=depowered+steering+rack+plug+kit) to make it look more professional.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/63433db640772d9f2f315fc4f2362828.png)

  

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Before re-inserting the steering rack shaft, make sure it's well-greased.  Just about any automotive-grade grease will do, but we chose wheel bearing grease because it was handy.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/b34593cfca06db10cb8439ce99e001c7.png)

  

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Slide the large bushing holder over the steering rack shaft at the opposite end of the pinion, and once the rack and bushing holder is pushed back into the housing, pop the snap ring back into the housing.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/7e010b04c52e34ab676c48d404ae4145.png)

  

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More grease, and then the pinion shaft goes in.  Some people suggest welding the upper and lower pinion splines together to eliminate the small amount of slop present (thanks to the hydraulic fluid passages used to help center the steering).  However, we're not going to do that here since we're trying to get this job done with the most basic tools and fewer steps.  Welding adds a complexity that won't benefit most of us performing this project.  Most people won't be able to feel the difference anyway but feel free to weld up the pinion now if you're so inclined.  If you don't know how to weld (or don't feel comfortable welding a steering component), there are [services to do this for you](https://miata-source.com/collections/miatasource-original-products/products/90-05-miata-depowered-pinion-welding-service).

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/646aa667739c3c0a30146f56e5e1920a.png) 

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Torque the bolt at the bottom of the pinion shaft to 25 lb-in., apply some thread sealant to the cover, and torque the cover to 35 lb-ft.  Did you notice the different measurements of force (lb-in. and lb-ft.)?  Don't get them mixed up, or else you'll be scouring used Miata parts listings for another steering rack to scavenge for parts.

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/fb2b6d58eb8cc0709f9885b70fb1c4a2.png)

  

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After inserting the parts in the correct order, center the steering rack shaft in the housing, and torque the adjusting cover to 43 lb-in. three times, then back it off 25°.  While holding the cover in place, thread on the locknut and snug it down.  You could probably put a little sealant on the threads of the cover just in case you need to ford a body of water with your Miata. 

![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/ff6196ae6be16696dea6f70ea0348942.png)

  

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![](https://cdn.kustomerhostedcontent.com/media/5eaadd5b7ea1da00197e0989/d890e41cd97bd1583ec06f522c524a15.jpg)

  

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There are more technical specs on how much resistance you should have when turning the pinion shaft, but we've never had one out of spec once we've completed the procedure correctly using the above steps.  Now, plug up all the holes with your modified hydraulic fittings.  And just like that: You're done.